Three dishes, one island
Sardinian cooking was born in the countryside, among shepherds and farmers, and its most famous dishes come from there: pasta filled with potatoes and cheese, a dessert made with fresh cheese and honey, and the suckling pig for feast days. In Rome they are not easy to find, because few restaurants cook Sardinian food. Our family comes from Sardinia, and we have been serving these dishes since 1977 at Via di San Giovanni in Laterano 48, about 300 metres from the Colosseum. This page explains them one by one, with the versions and prices you will find on our menu.
Culurgiones: the Sardinian ravioli
What they are
Culurgiones are filled pasta from the Ogliastra area, on the east coast of Sardinia. You recognise them at first sight by their shape: a plump dumpling closed by hand with a pleat that looks like an ear of wheat, called a spighitta. Closing them well takes skill, and in Sardinia the technique is passed down from generation to generation.
The filling
The classic filling is made of potato, pecorino and mint, sometimes with a little garlic: a simple combination that gives a soft, fresh and savoury filling. There are many local variations, with different cheeses, herbs or vegetables.
How they are served
The most common way is with a simple tomato sauce and grated pecorino; in some families they are served with butter and sage. They are eaten with a fork, without cutting them into too many pieces, so the filling stays inside. One plate is filling: if you also want a main course, consider sharing.
Our culurgiones
At Volare there are two versions, both with tomato sauce and both at €13:
- Culurgiones with potatoes, mint and pecorino, the classic recipe, among the chef's recommendations;
- Culurgiones with ricotta, spinach, saffron and orange zest, in the "Sardinian specialties" section of the menu.
The potato version is vegetarian and is a good first taste of Sardinia even for those who usually stick to familiar dishes.
Seadas: cheese, honey and a crisp pastry
What they are
Seadas (also called sebadas) are the best-known Sardinian dessert: a large disc of thin pastry filled with fresh, slightly tangy cheese, often flavoured with lemon zest, fried until golden and covered with honey. The contrast between hot crisp pastry, soft cheese and sweet honey is what makes them unforgettable.
How to eat them
Seadas must be eaten hot, as soon as they arrive at the table, when the cheese inside is still soft. Cut them with a fork, starting from the edge, and make sure every bite has a little honey. In Sardinia they are traditionally served with local honey, sometimes the bitter honey of the strawberry tree.
Our seadas
At Volare the seadas cost €7: you will find them among the homemade desserts and among the chef's recommendations. The traditional pastry is often made with lard: if you follow a vegetarian diet, ask the staff before ordering.
Porceddu: the festive roast
What it is
Porceddu is suckling pig, the dish of Sardinian feast days. Traditionally it is cooked slowly next to a wood fire, on a spit, for hours, until the skin is crisp and the meat is tender; at the end it is often laid on myrtle leaves, which give it a light aroma.
How it is eaten
It is a dish to eat slowly, with your hands if you like, starting from the crisp skin. In Sardinia it is accompanied by vegetables, potatoes or a simple salad, and by a glass of red wine, often Cannonau.
Our porceddu
Our porceddu is roasted in the oven and served with potatoes, at €20. It is in the "Sardinian specialties" section of the menu and also among the chef's recommendations, as maialino al forno con patate. If you are coming specially for the porceddu, call us to ask whether it is available that day.
How to recognise good culurgiones, seadas and porceddu
A few simple signs help you judge these dishes anywhere, not only at our tables:
- Culurgiones: the pleat should be even and tightly closed, and the pasta thin but firm enough to hold the filling during cooking. The filling should taste of potato, cheese and mint without being dry.
- Seadas: they should arrive hot and crisp, golden rather than dark and not greasy, with soft, slightly stretchy cheese inside.
- Porceddu: the skin should be crisp and the meat tender and juicy, never dry.
A complete Sardinian meal with these three dishes
The simplest way to taste the island is to order all three: culurgiones as a first course (€13), porceddu with potatoes as a main course (€20) and seadas to finish (€7). In total, €40 per person for a full Sardinian meal, from the pasta to the dessert.
If you prefer a lighter meal, one plate of culurgiones and seadas to share is enough to understand why these dishes are so loved. To start, you can add the mixed Sardinian cheeses (€13), with sheep's cheese cream, Sardinian pecorino and sheep's ricotta with honey.
The other Sardinian dishes on the menu
Culurgiones, seadas and porceddu are only part of what Sardinia offers. On the menu you will also find malloreddus alla campidanese (€12), fregola with clams (€16), spaghetti with bottarga (€16), sea bream with Vernaccia (€24) and beef fillet with Cannonau (€27). We explain them all in our guide to Sardinian food in Rome, and you can see the full list in the "Sardinian specialties" section of the menu.
Where to find them in Rome
Ristorante Pizzeria Volare is at Via di San Giovanni in Laterano 48, about 300 metres and a 4–5 minute walk from the Colosseum; from our outdoor tables you can see the amphitheatre. We are open every day from 12:00 to 23:00, at lunch and dinner. If you are visiting the area, our one-day itinerary around the Colosseum may be useful. You can book online from tomorrow onwards with the form on our website; for today, call +39 06 64764939 or send a WhatsApp message to +39 320 380 8302.
Frequently asked questions
What are culurgiones?
Sardinian filled pasta from the Ogliastra area, closed by hand with a pleat shaped like an ear of wheat. The classic filling is potato, pecorino and mint.
How do you pronounce culurgiones and seadas?
Roughly "koo-loor-JOH-nes" and "seh-AH-das". Seadas are also called sebadas.
What are seadas made of?
A thin pastry filled with fresh cheese, fried and covered with honey. They are eaten hot.
What is porceddu?
Sardinian roast suckling pig, the dish of feast days. At Volare it is roasted in the oven and served with potatoes for €20.
Where can I eat culurgiones in Rome?
At Ristorante Pizzeria Volare, Via di San Giovanni in Laterano 48, about 300 metres from the Colosseum. There are two versions, both at €13: potatoes, mint and pecorino, and ricotta, spinach, saffron and orange zest.